Saturday, June 5, 2010

About time...

I’m not doing this very well. Actually really bad since I never update my blog. But at least I think of write about what’s up every now and then, but almost every time I don’t. I mean who cares? But today I will, much thanks to a message I received on facebook.
My road trip ended in late April, earlier than planned, and to do a summer of the trip I write these words.
The trip had a bad start and an even worse end, but that’s another story. Except from the start and the end it has been good, great climbing and good weather.
The first destination was Fontainbleau and it couldn't been better; I like the bouldering in Font A LOT. The sun was out every day (but very cold) and the climbing company was great!!!
After Font I went to Spain and visited following crags:
• Margalef - feels almost as home. It's beautiful; the climbing gives you craving for moreMoreMORE until the skin is so painful that you can't sleep at night. The village and the people is just amazing. Good karma. I guess that's why I like Margalef so much.
• Montserrat - I spent too little time to get to know this place but I definitely want to climb here more. It seems to be a place with high quality climbing that never ends...
• Oliana - massive! I felt like a really tiny little nano dog standing and looking up at that cliff. Reeeesiiiisteeeenciiiia!
• Tres Pons - all the routes I climbed in Tres Pons were brilliant! Got to go again!

I spent some time home in Gothenburg before I went to my first boulder world cup in middle of May and I really enjoyed the comp. I always learn a lot on comps and get inspired by all the climbing masters. After the comp I went to England to get to know the British climbing and to see friends that I got to know on my road trip during the autumn.
My first day of climbing in England was at Longridge. Like a boulder wall in a gym, good angle, nice problems and long traverses.
The rest of the days I spent in Malham and Kilnsey sports climbing. The climbing was better than I expected, in Malham the climbing is very engaging without many opportunities to chill on the routes. I like that kind of climbing since I have to keep up the speed and that’s one of my weak points. Some routes is polished which sometimes was a little bit scary since I couldn’t trust the feet. The surrounding environment in Malham is absolutely amazing.
In Kilnsey a route got stucked in my head. I fell off so many times at the last hard move. The route didn’t let go and I couldn’t give up since I felt solid on the route almost every go. Didn’t understand why I kept falling. Before the last day of climbing I took a rest day and when I came back to give the route another fuckin go it worked out all the way. Sometimes I underestimate the good thing about resting.
You find great dark grey rock with both long and short routes in Kilnsey, it isn’t as calm as Malham since it’s close to the road but also a very beautiful place.
For me it was perfect climbing conditions, all days were really warm and sunny except for the last day. Many climbers thought it was too hot to climb but I guess you have to learn to deal with that if you want to climb in England ;-)


Tomorrow will be my last days of climbing for long time (at least long time for me) cause I’m going to Norway to work and I’m psyched for that. Disconnect to the world, just non-stop WORK!

Have a great sunny summer everybody!!!






Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Das K├╝hlerschlangen kaput!!!



Das kylarschlangen kaputt!!!
- Isak, the engine temperatur shouldn't be that high, right?
- I don't know...but I don't think so.
Seconds later all the lamps on the panel turned red and the car stoped.
Overheated engine. Fucking hell...
We tried to drive again after the engine had cooled down but couldn't drive more than maybe 1 km before the same shit happend. Fucking, fucking hell...
A rescue car came to pick us up after 4 hours by the highway and when we came to the car mechanic station there were like 5 men looking at the car but couldn't find anything that was wrong with the car.
So we started drive again and after half an hour we got a place in a never ending traffic jam, about 3 hours in the queue and the car got overheated again. Bingo!
We drove to a gas station to ask for help and then we met a lady who called to some guys that she said know cars. And that’s what they did for sure. The German men at the “Monstergarage” definitely know cars. On Saturday night they rowed our car and had it fixed for us. It was the K├╝hlerschlangen that was kaputt. It took them like a few minutes to see what was wrong with the car. The guys at the first station must have been punters of the punters. There are no words for how grateful I am for the Monstergarage people. Heros, masters, legends.

Now the car is running again and yesterday I had a fantastic day bouldering in Font; perfect weather, nice company and great bouldering.

Life is sweet again!

Friday, February 26, 2010

ROCK'N'ROAD


Leaving Gothenburg today for rock'n'road!!! I aimed to buy a van to go a little bit more luxury but couldn't find a suitable one so i'm leaving with my old car. But it's good, acually it has it all, even a hot spa spot (see picture)!!! Not a big one but just big enough for a terrier!
Join me for some crushin during the spring folks!!!

Monday, February 8, 2010

Friday, February 5, 2010

Competition


Picture taken on the way to participate in a climbing competition in Narvik, the Polar Cup! The comp was well fun, nice routes, nice people and great views (and music) on the way to Narvik and back.