Saturday, June 5, 2010

About time...

I’m not doing this very well. Actually really bad since I never update my blog. But at least I think of write about what’s up every now and then, but almost every time I don’t. I mean who cares? But today I will, much thanks to a message I received on facebook.
My road trip ended in late April, earlier than planned, and to do a summer of the trip I write these words.
The trip had a bad start and an even worse end, but that’s another story. Except from the start and the end it has been good, great climbing and good weather.
The first destination was Fontainbleau and it couldn't been better; I like the bouldering in Font A LOT. The sun was out every day (but very cold) and the climbing company was great!!!
After Font I went to Spain and visited following crags:
• Margalef - feels almost as home. It's beautiful; the climbing gives you craving for moreMoreMORE until the skin is so painful that you can't sleep at night. The village and the people is just amazing. Good karma. I guess that's why I like Margalef so much.
• Montserrat - I spent too little time to get to know this place but I definitely want to climb here more. It seems to be a place with high quality climbing that never ends...
• Oliana - massive! I felt like a really tiny little nano dog standing and looking up at that cliff. Reeeesiiiisteeeenciiiia!
• Tres Pons - all the routes I climbed in Tres Pons were brilliant! Got to go again!

I spent some time home in Gothenburg before I went to my first boulder world cup in middle of May and I really enjoyed the comp. I always learn a lot on comps and get inspired by all the climbing masters. After the comp I went to England to get to know the British climbing and to see friends that I got to know on my road trip during the autumn.
My first day of climbing in England was at Longridge. Like a boulder wall in a gym, good angle, nice problems and long traverses.
The rest of the days I spent in Malham and Kilnsey sports climbing. The climbing was better than I expected, in Malham the climbing is very engaging without many opportunities to chill on the routes. I like that kind of climbing since I have to keep up the speed and that’s one of my weak points. Some routes is polished which sometimes was a little bit scary since I couldn’t trust the feet. The surrounding environment in Malham is absolutely amazing.
In Kilnsey a route got stucked in my head. I fell off so many times at the last hard move. The route didn’t let go and I couldn’t give up since I felt solid on the route almost every go. Didn’t understand why I kept falling. Before the last day of climbing I took a rest day and when I came back to give the route another fuckin go it worked out all the way. Sometimes I underestimate the good thing about resting.
You find great dark grey rock with both long and short routes in Kilnsey, it isn’t as calm as Malham since it’s close to the road but also a very beautiful place.
For me it was perfect climbing conditions, all days were really warm and sunny except for the last day. Many climbers thought it was too hot to climb but I guess you have to learn to deal with that if you want to climb in England ;-)

Tomorrow will be my last days of climbing for long time (at least long time for me) cause I’m going to Norway to work and I’m psyched for that. Disconnect to the world, just non-stop WORK!

Have a great sunny summer everybody!!!


  1. Nu drar vi till Ålesund terriern! det e bara 100 mil dit...(typ9900km från sthlm)